10.02 MAMARI IN BARBADOS – journal- Jan 28th – FEB 12TH – OUR WEDDING DAY

 

link #a1>Marie<end sailed with me on Mamari from Corfu on 18 Aug 67 – to Las Palmas, Grand Canary.  We spent Xmas & New Years in Las Palmas. She then flew to Casablanca when my crew & I set off to “cross the Pond” on Jan 3rd 1968.  We arrived in Barbados on Jan 29th.  It had been just shy of a five month Courtship. pun intended.  

Marie rejoined me in Bridgetown, Barbados on Feb 3rd. about midnight when I was rudely awakened by link #a2>an unfendered boat<end slamming alongside.  We married Feb 12th and then sailed away on Feb 25thon a brief 5 month Honeymoon to the Bahamas and thence to Cape Fear where we cleared in link #a4>South Port<end From there we mostly powered up the Inter-Coastal Waterway stopping in Morehead City on the coast where my brother Joe joined us.  We continued on the waterway to Norfolk and the Chesapeake, where we then stopped in Fishing Bay on the Piankatank River in Mathews County, VA.  We arrived 28 Jun 68 where she got off to drive home with my mother Mimi.  Almost11 months aboard, how could I not fall in love?  Five months on a Caribbean cruise as lovers.  What more could you ask?

Marie didn’t do the crossing with me, stayed with our friends in Casablanca, and then was to fly to AA County in Maryland, south of Annapolis  where she stayed with my folks until my postcard to Daddy triggered her departure for Barbados  

For the crossing my two crew were Yves Blank [Frenchman from Paris speaks mostly French], Charlie Boone [Rocky Mount, NC, speaks only Suthun English, heavy on the accent please],  Since they had on language in common & were novices to boot, I had no fear they would mutiny.  Furthermore I was a somewhat benevalent  captain unlike Captain Bligh.  We crossed the Pond from 3 Jan 68 …29 Jan 68,, 25 ½ days – 2730 miles at 107 mpd..,  In contrast the longer link #a3>Sheldrake took 29 days.<end.

Sunday 28 Jan 1968 (76 mi: 2671 trip)

Star sight at 5:30 AM this morning.  Good fix. Slight airs during the night.  Self steering from1 AM on at about 3 knots.  Yves kindly stood watch until then squeezing miles out of her..

.       Monday 29 jan 1968 – into Bridgetown (59 mi: 2730 trip)

Into Bridgetown at 8 AM.  Hove to off port for breakfast by 7 AM.  Considering time zones that’s 25 days 22 hours for the voyage.  Probably can say 25 ½ days since we dragged our heels in calms during the night to make an early entry a dawn…however I’ll settle for 26 days, 105.5 mpd. Stood watches during the night.  Sailing around the southern end of Barbados. No  problems..though I went to seaward until bearings were established off the first point, Kitridge Point..was afraid that Charlie had let us drift to close in to the reef. As it was we were some 2 ½ miles clear.  Powered from South Point wind being spotty to nil.

                

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No signs of any friends at anchor off the Aquatic Club a mile south of town.  We powered on into the Careenage to enter, take on water and get our mail.  Friendly black faces to greet us a la Seychelles..the difference, the officials are also black.  Of course all these Islands have their independence now.

 

 

All told the following boats of note were there – only one, the tri-, beat us

Oopick – (a trimaran) 23 days (the best so far, 3 days faster than Mamari)

Mamari- Ken Court, Charles Boone, Yves Blank-25,5 days

Eider – Doug & Nancy Pyle –27.5 days

Tonnag – Brian & Derrick Barthgate (last saw them in Gib)- I didn’t record the speed

Sheldrake-Flee (Felicity) Moggeridge, Charles Stisted (her 1st cousin) & Jeff – 29 days

Alfa – Christian Guillain (my shipmate in Papeete) 31 days… 3 months old baby aboard Anahita – (I knew her in Hawaii – 34 days

Don’t recall the name – – (a large steel cutter) – 46 days

Don’t recall the name – (a small 23 foot boat) – 48 days

 

There were others, I did not record their names or remember anything about them.

 

While in town we saw Alpha, Christian Guillian (we last were together in Papeete in1965 as shipmates on Carmelia). They came in and then put on up the West Coast. After our business was done, and after ample steak, fresh fruit and bread was aboard, we motored down to the Aquatic Club.

 

Of our friends, only Tonnag, Brian and Derrick was there (we met at Gib, and wondered how they fared since). So that’s Tonnag & Alpha… No Anahita, and no Sheldrake. She of course left the same time we did, and were in sight of each other when we cleared Gran Canary. Anahita left four days before we did.

 

My mail was encouraging, lots of forwarded Christmas cards – including a dynamic photo of Johanne, Mauro Birindelli’s 70’ ketch. What a surprise, can’t remember his wife’s name.

 

Marie writes from Casablanca indicating that all goes well and that she will visit my parents on her way here – however as I’m ahead of schedule, I’ve not received her latest letter and fixed schedule.  Sent off a telegram to Casablanca.  Despite my kidding Marie..no qualms about the cost involved.  Also spent some more to send one home. 

 

It is now 2016, my family address is the same, Atholl.  Forty-eight years and no telegram, damned slow.

 

Anchored in 4 ½ – 5 fathoms off the Aquatic Club.  About a dozen yachts here. Our passage is one of the better ones so far. Oopick a trimaran did 23 days..most over 30 days..a small 23’ boat 48 days..a large steel cutter 46 days.  Alpha took 31 days – no hardship for the 3 month old baby.

 

30th  Tuesday (Carlisle Bay, Bridgetown)

 

A too hectic day sounding out supply and repair facilities here. For the most part rewarding.. The compensation for the day, a swim at dawn and dusk.

 

31st  Wednesday

 

Off to the Bel Aire Hotel at 11 AM.  Not to be recommended. A good time had by all, but attention ‘tis a brothel.

 

Feb 1st Thursday

 

Sheldrake came in today, 29 days.  They’d caught a Mahi-Mahi.  This we ate for dinner  aboard, Eider came sailing in at 1 PM, so another party on another boat – popcorn and the remaining rum.

 

2nd Friday

 

Anahita arrived today!  34 days.

 

Spent the day trying to cold chisel off a ½” x 5/16” steel collar on the propeller shaft – a follow-up on a half day’s work yesterday.  Finally got this “dog” clutch off and to town for repairs. This is a simple device, a 2 piece collar with teeth one is shifted aft at idle speed by a yoke moved by a handle in the cockpit.  This permits the engine to be disengaged from the prop shaft, a very necessary device, there being no transmission and therefore no reverse gear.

 

 

Feb 3rd Saturday Marie And then at 2 AM “Ken”  “Ken,”  Mariaki arrived on a fishing boat- rigged for flying fish. “Scrape” No fenders, “Thunk” a hard suitcase on deck….”Click,  click, click” high heels on my decks.  Three “no.. no’s” in a short interval. Was all I could do to calmly say, “Welcome Marie.”  She came below, saw a fried fish on the engine cover, “Ugg,” and threw our breakfast “extra” over the side. A fourth “no no.” As I like to spin the yarn

arrived last night)

 

The next morning she cooked breakfast for us and then let it be known to Yves & Charles they were no longer welcome. Imagine four aboard.  Yves, Chas, Marie and I.

 

Despite the four “no, no’s” and her kicking my crew off.  I chose to marry Marie. How could I not fall in love?  She had sailed with me for 5 months.  No woman had been aboard for more than a matter of a few days. Other than Jackie’s seven days in Rhodes and Lindos, and nineteen days in the Aegean from Kos to, Hydra with my all girl crew Anne & Nan & Steve…Steve? 

 

Off to town with Marie. A holiday!

 

4th Sunday

 

Yves left today on Anahita.  We sailed up the coast on Eider to Paradise Beach. Chas Stisted, his first cousin Flee Moggridge, & Jeff off Sheldrake. Doug & Nancy Pyle on Eider. Chas Boone, Marie & I off Mamari. Picnic . hot dogs and buns- a case of local beer… A GRAND PICNIC…  and music from the steel band floating up from the Hotel.

5th Monday  Washed off the engine.  Must do some work. Told Chas he couldn’t stay with us…too crowded for Mamari.  Saw a schooner afloat & careened in the careenage in Bridgetown.

6th Tuesday The rush to be married… Marie has visited my folks, no objection there (though in fact I’ve not asked).

7th Wednesday  More rush to be married.  The US Embassy here says to marry before arrival in the United States.  (Otherwise Marie would have to return to Greece for a visa. She may have to make the trip come what may) and we’ve friends here to make a wedding party (Sheldrake, Eider & Tonnag).  We decided to marry the following Monday the 12th … Short lead time..

8th Thursday . First consultation, the church, then the US Embassy…the the Barbados Govt. for a license. The license cost $5 BWI (British West Indies currency, all of $2.50 US), a bargain and we have now a civil marriage .  All that on a Thursday…plus Marie ordered a new dress,

9th Friday  Ordered a cake.  The black woman was a cook in Baltimore and will decorate the top with icing showing a ketch…Marie bought a veil, “lampshade,” she calls it, and tried her dress.

Rehearsed the ceremony at the Anglican Cathedral here…the Brit’s language is very specific, “Marriage is for the prevention of fornication. Smart like a fox, Marie’s query, “what pray tell is fornication?”  Taken aback the preacher hemmed and hawed.  I found a gold ring, for her, none for me.

10th Saturday  To the beach…Sam Lord’s Castle…  Charlie Boone moved off Mamari to Sheldrake.

11th Sunday, Carlisle Bay  Low key day.  We rested.

 We’ve asked Chas Stisted on Sheldrake to be best man.  Flee Moggridge (his cousin) to be maid of honor.  Doug Pyle of Eider to give Marie away.  Charlie Boone to be photographer (for prints we waited a year; only a few were good, and he had a fancy camera; that’s Charlie).

Monday 12 Feb 1968 AND SO I GOT MARRIED  at the Cathedral in Bridgetown – Everybody is busy this morning. Eider is decked out in signal flags. Sheldrake soon after.  “What is this?” I thought, “The Queen’s Birthday?”

All to town for shopping,  I’ve had to buy a white shirt to be married in – Doug lent me his Blazer fortunately!  And I bought Marie a silver tray and cake knife – bother are only plate – but nice enough.  Picked up the cake and duly transported it aboard- a beauty … Mamari and dinghy remained afloat.

We dressed, stepping lightly in the puddles of the cruising club “heads”… Marie, the girls and “Daddy” left in one taxi.  We bachelors in another –

AND MARIE BEAT US TO CHURCH!

There are changed preachers, (as the other was officiating at a funeral).  Exchanged wows (Flee tittering just a bit …fornication!  It was all I could do to keep a straight face. We were photographed (mostly blanks)…and returned to the sea!

BRAVED THE SURF –  dress, veil, blazer and all…and made it aboard. We have two slides of us embarking on the tranquil seas of life.  Doug & I at the stern pushing the dinghy off Marie on the fwd thwart. The next slide shows Maria scrambling from the stern to the beach as the ship’s wake wets the bow. Tranquil seas, hardly, with Greek and American it never was to be.

HEFTED MARIE OVER THE RAIL AND ACROSS THE COMPANIONWAY COAMING, unsure which was the threshold. .

The others joined us for Champagne.  One French left by Yves; one good Spanish left by Jeff on Sheldrake; one 35 peseta Spanish & Champagne Cider – relics of Las Palmas.  The cake was excellent.

Then to dinner aboard Eider.  Present: we two, Charles Stisted, Flee (Feliciity) Moggridge, Charlie Boone –Sheldrake; Doug & Nancy Pyle – Eider; Brian & Derrick Barthgate, the “Scottie boys” —Tonnag – there wasn’t any more room!

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Married,  we then spent the next 6 month’s Honeymoon thru the Antilles, to the Chesapeake and home.  Marie, now she goes by Maria. The “Marie” affectation was purely Greek, “jouis piano, parle francais” is the way to achieve status in Greece.

In the fullness of time Maria gave birth to our two daughters, Mika & Christina.  Mika, Mimi Eleni, July  12th 1971 and Christina Maria Sep 9th  1974.  They are both grown up now.  Christina never married and in 2016  will be 42, Mika will be 45, is divorced and is the mother of my two Grandchildren, Nadja born 27 Dec 2004 & Sylvan 31 Mar 2007,

Marie and I separated in late1982 and divorced in 1985. We had changed.  She was to have sailed with me on Kuma 1980-81 from Turkey to Annapolis with the girls along.  At the last moment, after all was in place she dropped out.  This left me scrambling for crew, by mid-July when I flew to Istanbul, I had lined up crew for all legs of the voyage.  That worked well with two exceptions.  In both instances I found replacement crew.  I had no idea that divorce was in the wind on my return. It was.

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"Throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." – Mark Twain